4. Making and customizing pieces. After collecting all the “found” pieces, the next step is to make whatever I couldn’t find.
Cut out the pattern pieces and pinned them to the fabric. The directions on the pattern recommend not cutting out the pieces, so the pattern can be used for multiple sizes, but we knew exactly what we were going to use this for. The pattern called for optional shoulder flaps, which we left out, and only put one functioning pocket in the suit. Otherwise, we followed the pattern exactly.
Because this fabric is not stretchy at all, we used iron-on interfacing. This helped cut down the time needed to attach interfacing. Here’s the pocket flap, interface-side up.
Here’s what the pocket flap looks like after flipped the right-side out.
A very important part of this pattern is to mark out where the pocket will go. Otherwise, it’s going to look weird. There are great pencils made specifically for fabric that are perfect for this.
The next step was to cut out the pocket shape.
Here’s the pocket flap attached to the pants.
On the advice of the directions, we used a piece of scotch tape to help keep the outline of where the pocket was going to be cut out.
The pocket all stitched together!
Finished pocket from the outside.
With the pocket done, it’s time to put together the top part of the suit.
The sleeve. Again, using the iron-on interfacing was a great time-saver. We don’t recommend using iron-on interfacing for a stretchy material.
Here’s the top and bottom of the jumpsuit.
And now they’re combined!
The pattern called for installing elastic in the middle. This won’t be visible because of the yellow belt, but it helps the jumpsuit to fit better.
The next step is to install the zipper. We went with a sport-style zipper to provide some endurance.
Front facing to help keep everything smooth.
After the zipper and front facing are installed. The front facing is underneath the zipper, so you can’t see it in this picture.
Next, it’s time to hide the zipper! Again, using the iron-on interfacing.
Here’s the zipper cover being attached to the suit.
And a nice topstitch to keep it down.
In the home stretch now!
The collar is installed.
Even though the bottom of the pants won’t be showing, it’s still a good idea to hem them.
We went ahead and added elastic to the bottom (optional) to help keep the pants legs down inside the boots.
Since the jumpsuit pattern didn’t include a hood, we had to look elsewhere. After some thought, it was decided to attach the white mantle to the hood. We found this pattern, which we modified to include a liripipe.
We used a white jersey knit for the cowl, which we had left over from the Captain America costume from last year.
Because this was an internet pattern, we wanted to make a prototype before using the real fabric. It was the perfect shape for what we wanted!
The hood is trimmed in fur, which can be tricky to work with. We pinned on the fur first, to get it how we wanted it, wrapping it around the blue edge of the hood. Be sure to know how many pins you’re using – you might need that number later!
Because we wrapped it, we were able to stitch the non-fur side on first.
We then stitched the fur side. If possible, stitch with the grain of the fur, instead of against it. This will save you a lot of frustration with the fur catching on the pressure foot of the sewing machine.
Here’s the hood attached to the mantle.
It’s starting to come together!
Initially, we threaded the shoelace through the hood, but we didn’t like the way it looked. So we cut the shoelace.
Shoelace attached, with a small piece inside the fur trim, to ensure it stays attached and looking good.
We took a piece of golden broadcloth we already had and cut it to the widest part (the hips). We then cut three strips of elastic one inch shorter than the waist measurement and created casings for each individual strip.
Brian had a pair of black combat boots, and since we were trying to get this costume done with the possibility of ice skating, we decided to go with boot covers.
We took more of the jersey fabric and draped it over the boot.
We then pinned the fabric tightly around the boot.
We removed the boot and traced the pattern the pins made.
Then cut out around the pattern, leaving approximately 1/4″ for seam allowance.
Sew up the front of the cover (the part that goes over the toe), and sew up the back approximately halfway. We then installed elastic around the base of the shoe, to keep it down, and to allow for the potential to transfer to ice skates.
Since the fabric isn’t quite as stretchy as spandex, we put a 4″ zipper in the back, to make it easy to put the boot covers on. We followed the instructions on the zipper packaging.
We ran out of fur trim at the last minute, so it was improvise time! We attached the fur trim to pieces of elastic, with the elastic on the back of the shoe.